Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.